The flight was short but intense. Twenty minutes out, a broken wall of
mountains, the Merumes, reared in front of us.
They were shaped like giant boxes, or even anvils, one at least I’ll swear
was broader at its summit than its base.
Sheer sandstone walls leapt clear of unbroken rain-forest; huge cumuli
hung over them, and, just as you realized you were flying through the range
well below the level of the summits, these clouds embraced the plane, blotting
out everything in fleecy whiteness.
After a few bumpy white-knuckle minutes,
the DC3 abruptly emerged into dazzling sunlight. Ahead, another yet-higher range of flat-tops,
the Pakaraimas, this time; another range of yet-vaster, cauliflower-headed,
ominously-shadowing clouds. But before
them, a broad green sunny valley silvered by two rivers that met to form a
broader one. No sight of habitation, no
sign of an airstrip. The plane banked,
descending steeply towards the unbroken canopy.
Suddenly. as you braced for impact, it banked again, and a narrow strip
of cracked cement sprang magically into existence right under the plane’s
wheels. A couple of bounces and there
you were.
Kamerang was just that, an airstrip, with
strings of white-painted wooden bungalows either side of it. We were lodged in one of them, a spartan
affair grandiloquently known as the Government Rest House. At dusk, the clouds lifted. Bleakley beckoned to us, we followed him out
to the veranda, and there, thirty or forty miles away, at the end of a long
avenue of river, rose Roraima, the
fabled tableland where Conan Doyle dreamed of surviving dinosaurs–Roraima, mute
symbol of all that remained mysterious in the world.
I wasn’t used to sleeping in a
hammock. I kept waking, once or twice to
the thunder of a shower on the drum-tight tarp, mostly because of unaccustomed
aches in muscles and bones. Then it was
grey dawn, everything still as death, thick mist over the water. The sun exploded, swallowing the mist in
minutes. Now we could see a
thousand-foot escarpment towering above the landing.
The trail zigzagged up the face of the
escarpment. It was like the opening
scene of Aguirre, Wrath of God played in reverse, only with
pudding-basin-coiffed Amerindians in place of helmeted Spaniards. Even with their loads they outpaced us as we
walked empty-handed, as befitted members of a master race, except for the Young
Agronomist who was burdened with a soil auger.
He was supposed to take soil samples with the auger, a five-foot metal
corkscrew, to see whether the upland soils were suitable for cultivation.
Above the escarpment lay gently rolling
country, montane forest with little underbrush, not all that different from an
English beechwood, varied by patches of savanna and occasional rocky
outcrops. Sure enough, in each little
valley were streams to ford, but our feet dried out quickly thanks to our
canvas-topped yachting boots. Nowhere in
the whole landscape was there the least sign that humans existed or had ever
existed. Even the trail we followed was
so faint it could have been a game trail.
In the stifling heat of noon the silence was all but absolute; just once
in a while, a bell-bird would give its single, limpid, echoing note.
We had three or four days of this before
we reached Ayenganna.
None of us was armed, except for the Swiss
doctor and the lead drogher. The lead
drogher carried a double-barreled twelve-bore; this was simply to shoot game
and augment our food supply. The Swiss
doctor had a Colt .22 automatic, or bluenose, as its aficionados called it--a
pussy gun, to the more critical. I’ve no
idea why he carried it. probably just from some boy’s-magazine idea about how
macho explorers should behave. One was
unlikely to meet either big fierce animals or bad guys. What they call in the
Jerry and I volunteered to sort things
out. We found the good doctor just off
the trail in a shallow rocky basin, facing off against a large ant-eater. Apparently he’d shot at it and missed, the
ant-eater ran and he followed, and now he had it cornered. The ant-eater was
swishing its long bushy tail and trying to look ferocious, but of course
they’re totally harmless. That didn’t
stop the doctor, who, even as we shouted at him to hold his fire, put a bullet
into it.
The ant-eater, wounded, lolloped painfully
off. We told the doctor what an asshole
he was, and to at least go in and finish it.
But we couldn’t find it. Maybe it
survived, maybe it died a lingering death.
You can’t just totally ignore someone when you’re out in the bush with
them for a couple of weeks, but the Swiss doctor became a non-person to me from
then on.